Stealing many a scene on the silver screen, ferrets most certainly hold top awards as the comedic clowns of the small animal world. With an otter-like love of frolic and fun, the ferret is an amazing little animal that is sure to put a smile on even the most serious of faces. Of course, with such a rowdy and rambunctious rascal in your home, you need to be extra careful and very responsible. Interested in what it takes to own a pet ferret or wanting to see if a ferret is the right pet for you? Check out these helpful hints to see if you and a ferret are the perfect match:

The ferret is a domesticated cousin of animals such as the weasel, otter and mink. Originally trained for the purpose of flushing rabbits up out of their burrows, their numbers dwindled significantly when this practice was outlawed. Fortunately, their merit as a household jester saved them and the ferret soon became known as one of the more unique (and mischievous) choices that one could find in family pets. Today, the number of household ferrets continues to grow and, where they were once considered an unusual pet, it is not uncommon to find ferrets of all different shapes, colors and sizes throughout the world today.

Contrary to popular belief, the ferret is not a rodent but is, in fact, somewhere between the cat and dog on the taxonomical scale. Highly intelligent, these little creatures can be taught to use the litter box, walk on a leash, and can even do a variety of tricks. Do they seem like the perfect pet? Well, in all honesty, ferrets are not for everyone. First of all, they are highly mischievous (this cannot be said enough) and will get into anything and everything. Because of this, ferret owners must be extremely responsible and practice a ritual that many teasingly refer to as “ferret-proofing the home,” or they risk their ferret coming to harm, as well as losing numerous trinkets to thieving hands.

Additionally, many places require ferret owners to have licenses or permits in order to keep ferrets and, in some extreme cases, some areas are known as “ferret-free zones,” where ferrets are banned and having one in your possession is considered illegal. While the ferret has been domesticated for more than 2,500 years, this is often the result of their being grouped in with wild animals or exotics, or the common misconception that they carry rabies. Like dogs and cats, ferrets receive regular booster shots to keep them safe from harmful diseases.

Another thing that bothers many people about the ferret is that, while the owners often become used to it, there is a very distinct odor to these cute and cuddly comedians. In most cases, you will find that your pet is probably descented and fixed but, if this is not the case, you may want to schedule a little trip to your veterinarian to do this. Even when they are descented and fixed, however, some ferrets will still have a rather musky odor. Produced by scent glands throughout their body, this smell can be transferred to their bedding, the furniture, rugs, clothing - whatever the little princess decides to roll on and rub against. Quite often, inexperienced ferret handlers believe this is a sign that baby needs a bath, only to discover their beloved pet smells worse afterward, once the oil glands work overtime to replace all the oil that the bath just washed away.

While there is no such thing as an odorless ferret, you can minimize odor by feeding him a diet that is not fish-based but, instead, contains healthy alternatives, such as lamb, rice and chicken. Cleaning his cage often will also help, as well as adding a small amount of baking soda to his litter, to help neutralize the smell. Its’ surprising how much odor can be controlled, simply by practicing responsible ferret husbandry.

Your ferret’s cage is his home and his safety-zone, providing him a place where he can eat, drink, sleep and play comfortably. For this reason, the cage needs to be large enough for him to easily move around and should be, at least, two tiers high. Ferrets should not be kept in cramped quarters or in aquariums for an extended period of time - not only will he be very unhappy in such an enclosure, but it is not a healthy surround for him either. Lack of proper ventilation will increase the ferret stink factor, but can also put your ferret at risk of heat stroke by keeping him in an enclosed tank.

Like humans, inactive ferrets can gain weight and obesity can lead to a wide variety of health problems. For this reason, the more space that the ferret has in his cage, the better off he will be. Ferrets love to climb, jump, roll and play - unless you plan on spending a lot of time with your ferret out of his cage, it’s highly recommended that you pay the extra and invest in a ferret tower. Standing 3 feet or more in height, they offer several levels and plenty of room for an active ferret to stay occupied.

For the best cages, choose one that has sturdy wire sides and a solid floor. While wire cage bottoms may seem tempting, they really aren’t effective for ferrets and they also put your ferret at risk - feet can easily become lodged between the wires and can lead to loss of circulation or broken bones. Keeping your ferret on a solid floor will prevent this, as well as making his cage easier to clean in the long run. Also be sure that your cage has a secure locking mechanism or you may wake to discover that there has been a jail break in the house while you slept. Ferrets are notoriously clever and quite adept at opening their own cages, given the opportunity.

Bedding is another important aspect of your pet ferret’s cage. Whether you seek to cover the entire bottom of his cage or just a litter box, it’s important to choose a product low in dust, absorbent, non-toxic, and it should ideally help to control odor. The best options for your ferret’s litter tray are either recycled paper pellets or corn cob bedding, though many ferret owners also sprinkle a liberal covering of aspen shavings over the bottom of their ferret’s cage. Ferrets love to burrow and push materials around, and seem to find a special delight in aspen or corn cob bedding.

Ferrets also love beds to sleep in. One of the most common ferret beds on the market is the ferret hammock. Hanging in the top of the cage, it gives the ferret a comfortable and cool bed where he can lounge about during the day. Ferrets also enjoy various cubby-hole toys but, in the event that you don’t have those, they can find temporary entertainment playing under a shoebox with an entrance cut into it.

In addition to this, you will need to make sure that you have a sturdy dish that you can use to feed your ferret in. Ceramic dishes work extremely well because ferrets will not chew on them and, due to their weight, they are very difficult to tip and spill. A large water bottle will provide your new pet with clean, clear water on a daily basis, which is equally important. While bottles cost a bit more than dishes, they are worth the difference because you only have to fill them once or twice a day, and they don’t get polluted with bedding and bits of ferret food.

When choosing your new pet ferret, be sure to find one that is active, alert, and attentive to what is going on around him. Young ferrets love to play and should exhibit signs of this, both inside the cage and outside of it. While ferrets do sleep a lot during the day, continued signs of lethargy may mean that the ferret is ill or injured.

A ferret’s eyes are bright, intelligent and inquisitive - avoid any who have a listless and uninterested look, once the individual has woken up. While waking ferrets tend to be a bit sluggish, those who fail to rouse after a brief handling may be ill. Any sign of discharge from the nose or eyes can also be a sign of infection as well, and ferrets who are coughing or sneezing profusely should also be avoided.

Young ferrets, also known as “kits,” have a strong tendency to roughhouse and nip, often playing much in the fashion of young kittens. While such behavior should be treated with understanding and patience, it’s advisable to avoid any ferrets who show excessive signs of aggression, such as bad temperament and/or hard biting.

Ferrets are extremely social and inquisitive creatures. Always wanting to be right in the middle of the action, they do best when placed in a position where they are out of the direct line of heavy traffic, yet are still open enough where they can see everything that’s going on. Positioning your ferret’s cage in such an area will not only satisfy some of his curiosity, but will also help him to become more accustomed to the general routines around your home.

Before your ferret is introduced to his new home and allowed to run around, you must first go through and “ferret-proof” your home. This means going around any area where they will be allowed to run and picking up anything that they can get tangled in or choke upon. You will want to ensure all holes are covered up and that poisonous houseplants are placed well out of reach. Also be wary of letting your pet loose in any room where he can crawl up into the furniture - one of the most common and most devastating accidents that can happen to a ferret is for him to be hiding in the recliner or reclining sofa and for the seat to be leaned back. Many ferrets have been injured in this fashion or worse. Treat ferret-proofing your home with the same diligence with which you would baby proof your house and chances are, you will manage to get a majority of things that your ferret would otherwise get into.

While it’s not necessary to hide your ferret away in a quiet room, you may want to give him a day or two so that he has a chance to settle into his new home before you go about handling him. Generally, young ferrets will let you know when they’re ready to be held, practically crawling out into your hands when you open the door. Taking the time to earn your new ferret’s trust will make the world of difference, and help the two of you form a long lasting friendship.