A Pet Rabbit Owner’s Manual

Over the past few years, pet rabbits have been increasing in numbers- particularly popular with families who are residing in apartments, the rabbit is still considered an “aquarium pet,” by most standards and many places who will not allow cats or dogs will often allow non-exotic aquarium pets, such as rabbits in their leases.  Litter-trainable like a cat and having an almost dog-like personality, rabbits can make an ideal pet for a responsible family.  Here are some helpful hints for choosing and taking care of a pet rabbit:

A Little Bit About the Bunny

Rabbits are cute, expressive, entertaining and affectionate.  They don’t bark or scratch on the furniture and they don’t need to be taken for walks.  Does that make them the perfect pet?  Well, for some people - yes, the rabbit can be an excellent pet but, like with any animal, a rabbit needs daily care.  They can be somewhat stubborn, territorial, and they do like to chew…  but with a contentious owner, they do make wonderful pets.  Reading up on these wonderful animals is definitely a step in the right direction:

Like dogs and cats, there seems to be a rabbit to fit almost every personality.  There are short-haired rabbits, long-haired rabbits, and rabbits with hair that feels like crushed velvet.  Some rabbits are tiny and others are huge, and some have upright ears, while others have ears that flop over.  Here are a few of the more popular kinds:

The Tiny Guys - Some breeds of rabbit, such as the Netherland Dwarf or Holland Lop are much smaller than the average rabbit, usually averaging anywhere from 2.5-3 pounds when completely grown.  Surprisingly, some of these little guys can be a bit aggressive when they get older - quite possibly due to all the “short jokes” they hear, while growing up.

The Giants - Known to be one of the gentlest breeds of rabbit, the Flemish Giant was originally raised as a source of food, though more compact and faster growing breeds of rabbit have taken over that role.  Today, the Flemish is best known for his place in various rabbit shows and as a family pet.  With an average weight of 15-16 pounds, up to 26 pounds is not unheard of, and it‘s important to note that these gentle giants require a larger cage and significantly more food than your average bunny.

Loveable Lops - If you love floppy ears, there are any number of lops to choose from.  The king of the lops, the French Lop, averages 13-14 pounds as an adult and is easily as large as a small dog.  English Lops are known for their hush-puppy looks and comically long ears, and the fuzzy lop looks like a cotton ball with floppy ears.

Velveteen Rabbits - The Rex and Mini-Rex are known as the velveteen bunnies of the rabbit world.  With a unique coat that feels like crushed velvet and sporting beautiful and unusual shades such as the castor or the intense rich black, they are a popular favorite amongst pet owners.

The Woolies - While not a pet for the average person, some people enjoy the challenge of caring for an Angora or one of the other powder-puff breeds, such as the Fuzzy Lop.  These breeds require weekly combing and “plucking” in order to remove excess fur and mats, and a lapse in this care can create a big mess in no time.  While they can be a pain to maintain, they tend to have very loveable personalities and are definitely good conversation starters!

As you can tell, there are literally hundreds of different kinds of rabbits to choose from, and breeders are always experimenting with new ideas for different breeds.  Perhaps part of the saying about rabbits multiplying doesn’t only pertain to the quick reproduction of these amusing little animals, but also to the fact that they are such loveable pets that it’s very hard to stop with just one. 

What You Need Before You Get a Pet Rabbit

One of the most important things that you need to get, prior to getting a pet rabbit is a cage.  Regardless of whether or not you want your rabbit to run around the house or if you plan to litter train or not, a cage is a rabbit’s safe zone - a place where he feels safe and protected, as well as a place for him to go when you are not at home.  Rabbits should never be left loose in the home; doing so is simply courting disaster.

Pet stores sell a wide variety of enclosures that they market as “rabbit cages.”  In truth, however, the best cage for a rabbit is one that has a wire top and either a metal or plastic tray on the bottom.  Cages with a wire bottom and a sliding metal tray beneath work best and make for the easiest cleaning, but you will want to ensure your rabbit is a little older for this style of cage - young rabbits can sometimes get their feet stuck down in the squares and can get badly injured if this is not caught soon enough.

Your rabbit’s cage should be comfortable enough that he has room to move around and turn easily.  For the smaller breeds, a 24 inch by 24 inch cage will work well, provided he gets daily exercise outside of his cage.  For medium to large breeds, you will want a minimum of a 24 inch by 36 inch cage, with larger cages still for the giant breeds.  While some rabbits enjoy multi-tiered cages, they are not necessary.  The most important thing is that he has enough room to move comfortably, and that your rabbit has a means to get out and exercise on a daily basis.

Exercise can either be through supervised free-roaming of the house, or in many cases, a caged in playpen area works very well for your pet rabbit.  Not only will such an enclosure prevent him from getting in under the bed and furniture, but it can also be used for supervised time outside, where he can enjoy some sunlight and the chance to nibble on fresh greens.

Rabbits drink large amounts of water, so it’s very important to provide your bunny with a large water bottle, allowing him access to fresh water all throughout the day.  While some rabbits are adept at drinking out of dishes, these can get messy, particularly due to the fact that rabbits tend to like to dig and nest, often covering their water dishes in bedding and depriving themselves of fluids.  While a ceramic or stainless steel bowl will work well as a food dish, it’s advisable that you go the extra and get a bottle for his water.  A salt lick and wood chews are also good things to provide your rabbit in his cage, and will help to minimize bad habits such as digging and chewing.

Bedding for your rabbit should be determined by the cage style that you use; wire cages with metal drop pans merely require aspen shavings or a layer of newspaper to absorb urine.  If cleaned regularly, these are very simple to maintain.  If your rabbit has a solid floor to his cage, you will need to use a material like aspen shavings or corn cob bedding and clean the cage often.  Newspaper should never be used in this style of cage, due to the fact that it is toxic, as is cedar.  For your bunny’s litter box, recycled paper pellets or corn cob bedding work very well. 

Choosing Your Pet Rabbit

Choosing a pet rabbit isn’t always as easy at it sounds.  While you want to find a cute bunny that is the color that you like, you also want to make sure this is a rabbit that will be friendly and that your bunny is healthy.  A close examination can tell you a lot about a rabbit’s health.

First, check the bunny’s eyes.  Rabbits are very intelligent and alert animals - those that seem lethargic or sleepy-eyed are probably not a good choice, particularly if they don’t become more alert when they are touched.  A healthy rabbit’s eyes are large, bright and ever-watchful.

Secondly, check the rabbit’s fur.  In most breeds of rabbits (long-haired breeds excluded), the hair is sleek and shiny, possessing a nice roll or fly back when stroked backwards, the hair quickly returning to its place.  If, when brushed backwards, the hair remains standing upright, it generally means one of three things - either the rabbit is very young and has not yet lost his baby fur (generally meaning he is too young to be sold), the rabbit is sickly, or he is molting (this will be noticeable, as he will be shedding profusely). 

Check the overall appearance of your rabbit.  If he shows signs of mucous around his nose or caked clumps of fur on his front legs, holds his head off to the side, or wobbles when he moves, you should avoid this rabbit and probably bring it to the attention of whomever is in charge.  Seeing signs of obvious sickness should be incentive enough to either wait a while on your bunny or to look elsewhere for a pet.

You will also want a rabbit that is friendly.  While some are skittish and may run away from your hand, avoid any who turn and jump at you or attempt to box at you with their front paws.  While this may be amusing behavior in a young rabbit, it is often a sign of early aggression and can lead to an adult rabbit that is very aggressive and will bite nastily.

Bringing Your Pet Rabbit Home

Bringing any new pet into the home is an exciting time, but one must first realize how traumatic all the changes can be for your new pet.  Not understanding, all they realize is that they have been taken away from what they know and put into a strange place with new sounds and smells.  Be patient of your bunny during this time and give him a few days to adjust to his surroundings, before you attempt to take him out of his cage and play with him.

While giving your pet a few days to readjust, why not take this time to rabbit-proof your home?  What’s rabbit proofing?  Rabbit-proofing means getting down on your hands and knees and viewing the world from your rabbit’s point of view, determining all the mischief he can get into and taking care of them.  Here are some common things that should be checked, when rabbit-proofing your home:

• All wires should be taped to the floors or against the wall, making them less tempting to chew on.  Additionally, bitter apple can also be applied to help discourage this.

• Any holes should be covered up or blocked off.  This includes floor and wall vents, as well as gaping spots in the recliner or sofa that a rabbit can craw into.

• Plants should be moved up and out of reach.  Not only do rabbits love to make a mess, digging in the dirt, but many houseplants are actually toxic.

• Any harmful chemicals should be raised up and out of reach.  This includes everything from toilet bowl cleaner and bleach to anti-freeze.  Anything that can poison a child can just as easily kill a young rabbit.

• Block off “hidden” areas, such as under the bed, where you don’t want a rabbit to go and hide away.

• Spray chair and bed legs with bitter apple to prevent chewing and pick up chewable items like plastic toys, yarn and newsprint.  While it may seem funny to watch your pet with these, all of them pose a choking hazard.

Taking the time to bunny-proof your home will help to keep your new friend healthy and happy.  Now, once you’ve let him adjust to the surroundings, all that’s left is giving him all the love and care he can take.  Treat your bunny with kindness and respect, and you’re sure to receive the same in return.